Asparagus for May and two brand new recipes

I’m nothing if not predictable

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When I stopped writing my column for the Guardian, I was happy not to have to hit all the food moments that punctuate the year. And here I am writing about the best way to cook asparagus in May. A woman of my word, clearly.

A bunch of asparagus after 10 months without it is always going to be my kind of thrill. So here I am with my asparagus recipes for you. It’s one of the greenest flavours I know, with an unmatched tender snap and crunch, one of my vegetable crushes.

I have shared two recipes as my feelings on asparagus are split right down the middle.

The purist/poet chefs (see the menus of Rochelle canteen, St Johns, Cafe Cecila, Cafe Deco) will tell you that asparagus is best left alone, boiled briefly with butter, then bathed in salt and lemon or dipped in mayonnaise or hollandaise. It’s hard to argue.

I am not a purist or a poet (though I’d quite like to be both), and I like asparagus lots of other ways too. I like the nutty flavour it takes on if you finely slice and sauté it, quite hot. I like it raw, sliced finely in a salad. I love it in this soup with coconut, in my humble and non-pure opinion, a very good match. I like it made into a thoran with mustard seeds and curry leaves.

Asparagus is efficient. The tips are the prized part, but the stem is just as flavourful. The tough bottom ends can be used too (some ideas below). I tend to cut my spears into thin coins (at an angle) rather than blanch them whole, separating the tender tip in one piece and then slicing the rest of the stem thinly so it’s all evenly cooked. Overcooking isn’t something I want to risk. I often do this and add the cooked buttered asparagus to this to cooked pasta with a spoonful of creme fraiche, lots of parmesan and lemon zest, sometimes with peas too.

A very persuasive argument for recipes which stretch asparagus a bit further is how much it costs. At the start of the season my local (usually very affordable) greengrocer was selling it at £6 a bunch, I’ve seen it for £9 and £11 from other overly serious London Delis. From the look of the prices at the supermarkets we are peak UK season right now as bunches range from £1.50 to £3 for supermarket own (though I ask you to bear in mind how these might be farmed and how much the farmers are getting). I’m not suggesting you spend £11 though - that’s insanity.

Asparagus needn’t be cooked though, especially these first young bunches, which are sweet and tender as they are. Recently, I have been peeling the spears into wispy ribbons, dressing them with a little salt, pepper and lemon and piling it all on top of mozzarella or some crumbled pecorino.

Some people prefer the thick, sturdy asparagus stalks, some the spindly thinner ones. I rest somewhere in the middle. You’ll find me sitting on an asparagus fence.

A few things about asparagus I like knowing;

• The season traditionally lasts from St. George's Day (April 23rd) to the Summer Solstice (June 21st).

• Asparagus can grow up to 10cm in one day.

• To prepare it you don’ t have to snap the ends - use a knife to chop little discs off with your knife until you can feel the change (or even nibble the end) to see where it turns from fibrous and stringy to sweet and snappy in a good way.

• If you’re preparing your asparagus to dip into something (mayo etc) then keeping the fibrous bit at the end to use as little handle to hold as you dip in is fun and useful.

• Use the woody bits to flavour a stock (recipe coming soon) or as the base for a soup or even a salad dressing (not tried it but like the idea).

These recipes are for my paid subscribers who support my recipes and writing monthly. Thank you if that’s you, and if you’d like to support you can click on the button below. If you’re a free subscriber then here are a couple of recipes from the archive and some other writing about asparagus I have loved recently.

• Ruthie’s asparagus carbonara

• Hugo’s asparagus wisdom

• My asparagus with Romesco or watch it here

Asparagus, pea & parmesan chopped salad